Braids, twists, extensions, the styles Black women have turned to as a way to give their own hair a break from harmful styling and chemicals, are the subject of the latest Black news for Black women. According to a recent report, these beloved protective hairstyles may be doing more harm than good.
Ingredients that can cause cancer were found in 10 synthetic hair products used in braids, extensions and other hairstyles popular with Black women, including artificial hair from popular brands such as Magic Fingers, Sensationnel and Shake-N-Go, according to a Consumer Reports study published this week.
Lead, which can cause serious health and developmental problems, was also found in nine of the 10 packs of synthetic hair surveyed, including one package of braiding hair that exceeded the maximum allowed dose of lead by more than 600%. Consumer Reports used California’s maximum allowable dosage level, describing it as the “most protective available in the U.S.,” because there are no federal limits on lead in synthetic braiding hair.
These styles are often worn for weeks at a time, which translates to longer exposure to the chemicals.
Many of the products you synthetic hair made from Kandekalon, a material produced by the Kaneka brand, according to Consumer Reports.
Kaneka told Consumer Reports, “Kaneka only manufactures the Kanekalon fibers that are used in various hair products, such as synthetic hair braids and wigs, and does not produce any of the final products.” The braiding hair companies themselves dye and style the Kanekalon, Kaneka added. The company also told Consumer Reports it would need more information to properly analyze the complaint.
Sensationnel, Magic Fingers and other products contain benzene, known to be a cancer-causing ingredient, according to the study. The chemical likely causes acute myeloid leukemia, according to the American Cancer Society.
Consumer Reports also found methylene chloride, which the EPA says can lead to liver and lung cancer after chronic exposure. No level of methylene chloride is permitted in cosmetics by the Food and Drug Administration.
“There is no safe level of exposure to lead or benzene,” Alexa Friedman, a senior scientist for the Environmental Working Group, a research and advocacy health organization, said.
Nine of the 10 products tested also contained lead, the report found. Lead can cause a number of developmental disabilities in children, as well as reproductive issues in adults, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
Magic Fingers told Consumer Reports that its customers “can count on us for braids and extensions that meet their highest expectations for fashion and performance.”
Sensationnel told Consumer Reports, “We unequivocally stand by the safety of Sensationnel products.”
Black women are the primary users of these products, and people of African descent are the largest group of consumers of hair wigs and extensions. In 2023, the U.S. market for these products was valued at $2.79 billion and is expected to reach a value of $6.34 billion by 2029.