In jazz, every musician brings their own interpretation to familiar standards. For Gerald Dunn, that same principle applies to barbecue at his Grandview restaurant, Dunn Deal BBQ.
“I treat smoking meat like I treat music,” says Dunn, who splits his time between his BBQ joint, being the band leader of The Jazz Disciples, serving as director of entertainment at the 18th & Vine District’s American Jazz Museum and serving as general manager of the museum’s nightclub, The Blue Room.
“It’s like playing a Charlie Parker number,” says Dunn, also a saxophonist. “Everybody knows the composition, but inside of it, each musician brings their own experience through different notes and scales and harmonies and phrases. You improvise, and that’s how you find your unique voice.”
For Dunn, that voice carries the twang of East Texas barbecue with subtle Kansas City harmonies. Since quietly opening in March 2024, his Friday-and-Saturday-only operation has built a following by merging his grandfather’s time-tested techniques with local traditions.
Early mornings find Dunn tending fires of hickory — sometimes blended with pecan or post oak — behind the carry-out-only restaurant at 506 Main Street. By opening time at 11 a.m., lines form outside, and the restaurant usually sells out around 4 p.m.
The brisket is Dunn’s signature, seasoned with a family recipe that reflects his East Texas roots near the Louisiana border. While Central Texas barbecue typically uses just salt and pepper, Dunn’s rub incorporates Cajun elements passed down through generations.
“Brisket is my forte,” says Dunn. “I want to be known as the brisket king.”
His brisket is served Texas-style, meaning it is sliced thick, and the customer has the choice of either “fatty” or “lean” brisket with no burnt ends.
The lean portions come from the brisket flat and resemble what most in KC think of when ordering brisket. The fatty portions come from the point end of the brisket, which is more marbled and flavorful.
Traditional KC-style uses the point end of brisket to create burnt ends, whereas Dunn cuts a thick melt-in-your-mouth slice of brisket that is uncommon in the KC area.
His grandfather — L.K. Dunn — taught him the distinctions of regional barbecue while cooking for churches and family reunions in Lindale, Texas. Those overnight sessions weren’t just about barbecue – they were community gatherings where men would share stories until dawn.
“During those overnight cooks, those guys would stay up and talk about the good old days,” says Dunn. “It was a family-bonding event, a community event.”
Dunn spent years smoking meats for catering and competing in barbecue contests, with his trophies and ribbons now displayed at the restaurant. His barbecue caught the attention of Grandview city officials, who encouraged him to open a brick-and-mortar location.
Before opening a brick-and-mortar, Dunn sought counsel from Kansas City barbecue royalty Ollie Gates.
“Mr. Gates told me, ‘You know it’s hard work,'” Dunn says. “I thought long and hard about it before opening.”
Beyond the celebrated brisket, Dunn offers pulled pork, chicken, turkey, ribs and sausage. Sides include french fries, coleslaw, potato salad and baked beans. Daughter Marissa Hill contributes award-winning banana pudding.
The restaurant’s atmosphere mirrors Dunn’s musical background, with jazz and blues providing the soundtrack. Future plans include outdoor seating and possible live entertainment once ongoing street construction concludes.
For now, Dunn focuses on consistency, treating each cut of meat like a musical composition requiring careful interpretation.
“You are constantly learning,” says Dunn. “You have to know how to adjust. It takes time, you can’t rush it.”
Just as jazz musicians must find their voice within established standards, Dunn has developed his own barbecue style that honors both Texas and Kansas City traditions without being bound by either.
The result is distinctly his own – a smoky symphony that’s drawing crowds to Grandview.
Dunn Deal BBQ
506 Main Street, Grandview, MO
Open Fridays & Saturdays
11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Currently Take-out Only
